Still heading west: Sights and scenes from Halls Creek to the coast

A long way to anywhere!

If there’s one thing we are continually reminded of on this trip, it is that Australia is a BIG country. It’s a long way to just about anywhere!

The leg from Kununurra across to Broome is a little over 1,000 kms. Reluctantly, we decided to give the Bungle Bungles a miss, partly because we’d already seen extensive aerial views of them on a scenic flight, and partly because we’d also seen many mini Bungle Bungles land formations around Kununurra. Not to mention that the 56 kms goat track in to the Purnululu National Park (not including the vast distances once inside the park) is pretty unforgiving at the moment, and we’re not equipped on this trip to leave the van to go camping. So, maybe next time?

So, our first stop was Halls Creek which, again, seems a long way from anywhere.

Long distances when heading west from Kununurra

Make sure you’re carrying sufficient fuel and supplies to ensure you comfortably make the next services, because there’s a loooong way in between!

We were fortunate enough to see this friendly stockman giving us a wave as he herded his many charges along the side of the highway, just outside of Halls Creek.

Stock being driven along the Great Northern Highway, near Halls Creek WA

Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater

One reason for stopping in Halls Creek was to see the famous Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater, which was kind of nearby … in an outback Australia kind of nearby. It was 152 kms each way, of which only 17 kms was sealed. The rest of the road (most of which was the famed Tanami track) varied between soft sand, big rocks, gravel and LOTS of corrugations! And yes, we left our trusty van back in town as we headed out to see the crater.

Road sign heading west out of Halls Creek WA

What this next road sign neglects to mention is that Alice Springs is over 1,000 kms down the Tanami!

Just 1,050 kms to Alice! … but who needs such petty details?

This next sign also gave no details of the vast distances. So much for checking out the Warlayirti artists’ gallery in the Balgo Aboriginal community, a “little bit long way” down the road … try 260 kms down the road! (Note that the artists’ gallery sign is actually painted on an old car bonnet. This is an emerging local community arts theme in and around Halls Creek … more example further down this blog.)

The gallery is actually 260 kms down the track – “little bit long way”!

After more than 130 kms of kicking up dust, we arrived at the crater.

Yes, that’s another car swallowed up by the oncoming truck’s dust.

The Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater is the second largest in the world from which meteorite fragments have been recovered (which have been found up to four kilometeres away). The meteorite is thought to have crashed to earth here around 300,000 years ago, leaving a massive perfectly formed crater which today measures around 850 metres in diameter.

The Wolfe Creek crater is the entire ridgeline ahead of the road

Sights in and around Halls Creek

We stayed for two nights in the Halls Creek caravan park to allow us some time to explore the town and the surrounding area. The CP was pleasant enough, with a very transient overnight population of caravans, motorhomes, camper trailers and tents. While basic in terms of amenities, the staff were helpful and there were plenty of sites.

Jen in front of the ‘China Wall’ just outside of Halls Creek. A fascinating natural wall of white quartz that transects the country for many kilometres. (Halls Creek, Western Australia.)

The car park at China Wall protected by some local rocks, very reminiscent of the zebra rock and ribbon rock found around Kununurra (Halls Creek, Western Australia).

Two quirky things that struck us about Halls Creek were the many painted public garbage bins and the use of painted car bonnets as ‘canvases’ for directional signs to local attractions.

The bins were painted by some 40 local artists and schoolchildren to brighten up the town and instil a sense of ownership and pride for all ages in the community. Even this public composting toilet facility at nearby Caroline Pool campground couldn’t escape the artists’ brushes!

Some of the old painted car-bonnets-cum-direction-signs for local attractions are depicted below:

Caroline Pool water level was much lower than usual due to the poor wet season this year, Halls Creek, WA

Yet another gate to be opened and closed as we visited the local sites, Halls Creek, WA

Geikie Gorge

Next stop after Halls Creek was a free camp about 55kms past Fitzroy Crossing. After setting up camp, we headed back to town and out to Geikie Gorge, about 20k north of Fitzroy Crossing.

What a gem of a find!

We took the sunset cruise up the Geikie Gorge, which was formed by the Fitzroy River. The cruise was expertly guided and commentated by one of the local rangers through stunning scenery, with colourful sandstone cliffs, sandy river banks, and plenty of birdlife and freshwater crocodiles to be seen. The late afternoon sun lit up the cliffs as we cruised past, and, in some spots, almost beneath them.

The visitors’ pavilion depicts previous flood levels on the posts and rafters. Note that the floor is already more than ten metres above the current river level. (Geikie Gorge, Fitzroy Crossing, WA)

Note the top flood level marker indicates the flood water was actually two metres higher than the top of the roof and would have been more that 22 metres higher that the current water level when we were there. (Geikie Gorge, Fitzroy Crossing, WA)

The setting sun lights up the cliff face. The lower area of the cliff is white as each year during the wet season the flood waters sandblast the walls clean, uncovering their natural colour. (Geikie Gorge, Fitzroy Crossing, WA)

The height of the river in the wet season is starkly clear on the cliff. Geikie Gorge WA

The sandy river banks are often used by the local crocodiles to warm themselves in the late afternoon sun. Geikie Gorge, Fitzroy Crossing.

A pair of freshwater crocodiles warming up. The male on the left was approximately two metres long, and the female was around 1.5 metres. Geikie Gorge, Fitzroy Crossing.

Jen enjoying the late afternoon cruise and sights on Geikie Gorge, Fitzroy Crossing

In the centre of the image above (in a crack near the waterline) are the roots from a tree growing some 20 metres higher on the cliffs, which provide the water to sustain the tree during the dry season. Geikie Gorge, Fitzroy Crossing.

Spot the two metre freshwater crocodile just lazing around in the water!
Geikie Gorge, Fitzroy Crossing.

John relaxing and enjoying the sights. Geikie Gorge, Fitzroy Crossing.

Part of the enjoyment of a sunset cruise is driving back to the van some 50 km away, meaning a night drive through the bush. We met this Brahman cow on the dirt road leading to our campsite. It seemed to like our lights and happily walked in front of us for a while before being persuaded to wander away and let us pass!

Tunnel Creek

Next day, we left the van at our free camp again, this time to venture about 60kms north on the Fairfield-Leopold Downs Road to visit Tunnel Creek.

Tunnel Creek is a 750m long cave carved out of the limestone range by flowing water. The cave is up to 20m high and 15m wide – in parts. Other sections necessitate bobbing down low and guarding your head!

Walking the full length of the creek through the cave system entails wading through sometimes knee-height water, with only a torch to provide some light in the pitch darkness! Oh, and did we mention there are freshwater crocs in the creek? (Fear not, we didn’t see any … but that doesn’t mean they weren’t there!)

But some of the views were stunning, as the following images indicate.

Near the entrance to Tunnel Creek cave system, Western Australia.

Natural light in the mid-section of the cave system, Tunnel Creek WA

Far end of the cave system, Tunnel Creek WA

Limestone formations, far end of the cave system, Tunnel Creek WA

The rocky entrance to the cave system can be tricky to navigate, Tunnel Creek WA

Watch your head! Bobbing through the rocky entrance to the cave system, Tunnel Creek WA

The rocky entrance to the cave system – yes, you have to climb up and over this one-metre-high gap then either crawl or slide through on your bottom, in order to enter and exit the cave system! Tunnel Creek WA

And so, we were back on the road again heading for the coast at Broome. On the way, we caught a glimpse of these two rock wallabies, sitting almost invisibly amidst a dry rocky river bed.